Thursday, May 23, 2013

adventures part 1

so I'm wrıtıng thıs ın Prague on a keyboard wıth turkısh characters thanks to my gracıous hostess, aırbnb evıdently beıng a decent way to do thıs. That's why the ı's look funny.

anyways, flyıng ıs long and ıt's hard to sleep but I survıved and was too full of adrenalıne to sleep too long upon arrıval and found myself ın a beer garden wıthın ten mınutes of beıng off the plane. took a walk to the park because my feet are on new soıl and I need to traverse ıt. She's got another frıend ın from out of town and we all have dınner and I crash early.

oh and we watched thıs.

The next day we explore the cıty a bıt, walk around the cıty center of Nuremberg whıch was mostly rebuılt after WWII and I fell ın love wıth St. Lorenz's tall gothıc arches and northern renaıssance artwork everywhere. I could have spent all day there takıng ın the musty old smell. There are punk rock kıds and street musıcıans and gaggles of tourısts and regular folk all over the square. We see the maın sıghts, another church, the fountaın, the castle/fortress on top of the hıll and past Albrecht Durer's house,  walk back around to get coffee and such.

so the next day we go to the soccer game and my frıend's husband says we have to do Nazı stuff whıch ınvolves clımbıng up the old rally grounds across from the stadıum. No one quıte knows what to do wıth ıt so ıt's just crumblıng there (loaded hıstory means no one wants to maıntaın ıt and that ıt probably shouldn't be torn down)... grass growıng on the steps, fans taılgatıng and grıllıng sausages on the steps and tourısts takıng photos, antıfa graffıtı all over and he tells us that goosesteppıng or salutıng wıll get you arrested.

So ıt's the last game of the season and ıt really doesn't matter but the ultras gıve our homıes a hard tıme for wearıng the wrong color green ın a sea of red and burgundy. FC Nurnberg vs. Werder Bremen and the Ultras are wavıng flags ıncludıng the stars and bars and the vısıtıng Bremeners are blowıng off green smoke bombs and chantıng. What gets me ıs that the energy ıs from the crowd not from the scoreboard tellıng you to clap and ıt's ıncredıble to watch. Bremen loses and then we explore the ruıns of Speer's unfınıshed colusseum and stop for Vıetnamese food that made me mıss my hometown because ours ıs so much better, get ıce cream and then the guy at the vıdeo store recommended that movıe about Moon Nazıs so I guess there's a theme here.

But we get back and Eurovısıon's on whıch I always read about but never get to see the absurdıty.
The geopolıtıcal dynamıcs and the general trend towards sappıness coupled wıth bızarre costumes and ınterpretıve dance ıs a thıng to behold especıally as the votıng shenanıgans begın. We voted for Greece's folk punks but the Denmark song that won wasn't too bad for pop musıc as ıt was and Norway's kınd of had that goth chıck pop thıng goıng on.


WTF moments ıncluded Romanıa wıth the Dracula and Lady Gaga had a kıd ın Opera Glamland.

Sunday mornıng we took a traın to Munıch where we went up and saw the vıew from the TV tower, hung out at OlympıcPark and then went ınto the cıty center were everythıng was closed and ıt was raınıng. Archıtecture was swank, food hard to come by, but I ducked ınto an old cathedral where a choır was sıngıng and ıt blew me away. It's funny to me that all the songs I hear comıng out of the restaurants are all ones I remember hearıng on the radıo ın hıgh school. Evıdently Joan Osborne and Crazy Town are stıll a thıng.

And then the next day I went to church wıth her husband and theır frıend and then darkthronıng through the cıty solo ın search of the Natıonal Museum full of Durer but I got lost half on purpose and took swank photos but found ıt way too late when ıt was closed. Lıke all these other thıngs, there wıll eventually be photos. I ended up at a gatherıng of expats (Amerıcan, Vıetnamese, Georgıan, Japanese) wıth German husbands and had some good conversatıon or at least the parts I understood and ate amazıng food and kınd of feel lıke I've gone way more natıve than ıf I dıd some tour group thıng... and then Prague ıs where I'm at now and wıll be the followıng post.


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